Saturday 17 July 1999
We wake up early in the calm weather just to realize that Martin already is boiling water for coffee and oatmeal on the Swedish ”Trangia” spirit stove. Today’s hike passes the glacier and upwards ”Kverkfjöll” to visit a snow cave. Well packed for the hike the bus drive us to the glacier foot and an 8-hour hike can begin. The sun is high on the sky makes the glacier appears in its magnificence.
We pass deep cracks in the glacier surface and are stunned by the loud sound from snow collapse underneath the ice. The distributed snow throwers are not needed, as there hasn’t been severe night frost this night. On the way Hagen reads 1,270 meters altitude on his GPS. Later on we are at 1,450 meter above sea level and at that time we had passed the glacier heading direct at the snow peak of the volcano.
At a point the guides take a stop to judge the weather condition as the clouds is hanging very low and are moving towards us. We are pretty convinced that this means the end of the trip, but Icelanders aren’t chickens. We continue and does not regret. After half an hours hike in snow we arrive to the magic spot where ice displaced by steaming sulfur and boiling springs. It smells bad of rotten eggs and the surface is very soft and muddy to walk.
We continue and are impressed by the formations of the nature. The fog intensifies and we take a break at a hilly place where the fog and snow suddenly mixes and everything is white. It’s funny to walk around in this whiteness and Børge, Martin and I enjoy a quick snowball fight, while the other hikers looks at us.
A lot of different nationalities are gathered in this group: Finish, Icelanders, Belgians, Austrians, Germans and Danes. We have a chat with most of them and help each other taking photos.
he trip downwards is going to be somewhat different than expected. After half an hour walk downwards our guide stops, button ups his rainwear, sits down and slides down the glacier. We realize soon that this is actually the way down and buttons up our jackets and buckle our baggage tightly for a leap in the dark, so to speak. Good grief a rush – 700-meter high speed downwards on our bottoms while our trousers, boots and jackets gets soaked. Not the smartest move but so hilarious. Nice move from the guide. We still have a three hour walk back home, now with snow and pebbles in our boots for those of us without gaiters.
At a place that looks like a mini Grand Canyon we get fresh mountain water and reaches the snow cave. Unfortunately the cave is closed as large blocks of ice have fallen from the ”ceiling”.
We continue into the desert rock while the rain starts trickle. All our senses are in use when some of the participant’s starts glide down the slope. It simply incredible slithery as the surface below the snow is hard ice. Very careful we walk softly until we reach the glacier ”tongue”, that can be passed safely. Soon we reach a river where other talents stand to test.
A metal gangway that looks like an overturned pylon is dragged over the river. One by one we climb over with a solid hold on cameras, baggage and of curse the gangway. Not really a trip for retired persons or package tourists.
Everyone is quite dirty, tired and soaked as we return to the campsite a 6pm. While Børge and Martin are tough and sit outside when it was pouring down to cook dinner, I try comfortable to write down today’s challenges for the diary inside the cozy tent.
My thoughts go to the two leathernecks outside that look at with surprise by the other participant from within the hut. We are to rise early tomorrow and decide to go sleeping at 8pm to have a good rest, being full of great impressions.